Clark's account from the Sandy River past Hayden Island as the Lewis and Clark party headed toward the ocean in 1805
[Clark, first draft] Novr. 4th, Monday, 1805
a cloudy cool morning, wind West, we set out at ½ past 8 oClock haveing dispatched 4 men in the small canoe to hunt
West 6 miles to the North side & lower point of a large Island,
passed the lower point of dimon[d] island at 3 miles, a little below the head
of a large Island on the Lard Side (river wide and Countrey low on both Sides
& thickly covered with pine)
this Island is seperated from one on its Lard. by a narrow chan. in which there is only water in high tide. which rises here 18 inches. high tide at 6 oClock P M
We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes built of straw, we were treated very kindly by them, they gave us round root near the size of a hens egg roasted which they call Wap-to to eat.
N. 88. W. 6 miles to Point on the Stard Side passed a village [of] 25 Houses on the Lard. mane shore, those houses are differently built from those above all except one verry large house covered with bark & Thached with straw. verry worm
N. 80. W. 3 miles on the Stard. Side, a Pon [d] and a small plain on Std. Side passed the head of an Island at 1 mile near the middle of the river to a 2d Island 0ps. the end of this course
N. 76. W. 4 miles on the Stard Side passed a Island near the large Island Ld. a range of high hills on the Lard Side running S E. & N W. leaveing a large bottom on the river
I walked out on the Stard Side found the country fine, an open Prarie for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber on the edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is spruce pine & other species of Pine mixed some under groth of a wild crab & a species of wood I'm not acquainted [with], a species of maple & cotton wood grow near this river, some low bushes
Indians continue to be with us, several canoes continue with us, The Indians at the last village have more cloth and Uropean trinkets than above I saw some Guns, a sword, maney Powder flasks, salers Jackets, overalls, hats & shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only. dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians stole my tomahawk which I made use of to smoke I serched but could not find it, a Pond on the Stard Side off from the river. Raspberries and [blank space in MS.] are also in the bottoms met a large and small canoe with 12 men from below the men were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the large canoe had emiges on the bow & stern handsomly carved in wood & painted with the figure of a Bear in front & man in a stern. Saw white geese with black wings. Saw a small crab-apple with all the taste & flavor of the common. Those Indians were all armed with Pistols or bows and arrows ready sprung war axes &c.
N W. 3 miles on the Stard. Side passed the Lower point of Immage canoe Island and 4 small Islands at its lower point all on the Lard Side.
N. 35. W 1 mile on the Stard. Side, bottoms low and extensive not subject to over flow, river about 1/2 miles wide
North 3 miles to a white tree on the Stard. Side. high tide here at 5 oClock P. M. . . .
. . . we proceeded on met a large & a Small canoe from below with 12 men the large canoe was ornimented with Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the canoe, rising to near the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was in this canoe passed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles in length haveing passed 2 Islands on the Stard. Side of this large Island, three Small Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is Situated back of those Islands on the Lard Side. and I believe that a chanel is Still on the Lrd. Side as a canoe passed in between the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to traffick with some of the nativs liveing on another chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick sand river passed a village of four large houses (Mu/knomans) on the Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt. Helien [St. Helens] which is perhaps the highest pinical in America [from their base] it bears N. 25. E. about 90 miles. This is the mountain I saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October last covered with Snow, it rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe about a mile lower passed a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed a village on each side and camped near a house on the Stard. Side we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding that we could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and Encamped on the Stard. Side3 Soon after 2 canoes came to us loaded with Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.
This evening we saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the Lard. side which runs S. E. & N. W. covered with tall timber the bottoms below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw white geese with a part of their wings black. the river here is 1-1/2 miles wide, and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy Island the brant & geese make such a noise that it will be impossible for me to sleap. we made 29 miles to day .
Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. [I saw a Bra-row tamed at the 1st village to day] The Indians which we have passd to day (in their boats were of) of the Scil-loot nation (going up to the falls differ a little) in their language from those near & about the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little, except they have more of the articles precured from the white traders, they all have fiatened heads both men and women, live principally on fish and Wap pa too roots, they also kill some fiew Elk and Deer) dureing the short time I remained in their village they brought in three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are thievishly inclined as we have experienced.
a cloudy morning some rain the after part of last night & this morning. I could not sleep for the noise kept [up] by the Swans, Geese, White & black brants Duck &c. on a opposit base, & sand hill Crane, they were emencly numerous and their noise horrid. We set out at sun rise & course
N. 35. W 3 miles to a Stard. point river about 3/4 of a mile wide a small prarie on the Std.
N. 30. W. 3 miles to the South West Side of an Island seperated from the Stard Side by a narrow chanel nver widens to about 1/2 miles Green bryor Isd.
N. 12. W. 3 miles to a Lard point of rocks opposit the upper pt of an Isd on Std Side psd 2 houses on the Lard Side, passed the lower pt of the Island Std. at 2 miles. behind this Island a little above the lower point on the Std. side is a large village of 1/4 of a mile in extent. I counted 14 large houses in front next the slew [slough] 7 canoes loaded with Indians came of [f] to see us. low rock
N. 22. W. 6 miles to a Stard point passed a large slew 1/4 of a mile wide or at a 1/2 of a mile on the Lard Side some low rockey clifts below. The language of those people have a great similarity to those above. Met 3 canoes of Indians
N. 30. W. 5 miles to a point of woodland Stard. side. a range of high hills here forms the Stard. bank of the river, the shore bold and rocky covered with a thick growth of pine timber an extensive low Island & bottom on the Lard. side1 passed 2 Islands on Std. & the Lowr pt of 3d.
N. 40. W. 7 m. to a point of woodland Std. passed the Lower point of the Island close under the Lard Side at 5 miles a small Island in the middle of the river. passed an old village on the Island at 3 miles. The high hills leave the river on the Stard. at 3 miles a high bottom below met 4 canoes of Indians one of those canoes had emiges bow & stern & 26 Indians in them all
N. 40. W. 5 miles to a point of high piney land on the Lard Side the Stard. Shore bold and rockey passed a Creek at 2 miles on the Stard. Side. below which is an old village. rained all the evening and some fine rain at intervals all day river wide & Deep
our hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks, and a Swan which were divided. We came too and Encamped on the Lard. Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each side. the river about 1/2 mile wide the high lands rise gradually fiom the river & bottoms. we are all wet cold and disagreeable, rain continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat. my feet and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a Island but little appearance of Frost in this place.
Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I [s]lept but verry little last night for the noise Kept [up] dureing the whole of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &C. on a Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely noumerous, and their noise horid. we Set out early here the river is not more than 1/4 of a mile in width, passed a Small Prarie on the stard Side, passed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other on the Lard. Side a canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it mearly to view us, passed an Isld covered with tall trees & green briers Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow chanel at 9 miles, I observed on the Chanel which passes on the Stard. Side of this Island a short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and closely connected, I counted 14 houses (Quathlapotle nation) in front here the river widens to about 1-1/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large village to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well disposed, they accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about 1-1/2 miles below this village on the Lard. Side behind a rockey Sharp point, we passed a chanel 1/4 of a mile wide [Willamette slough], which I take to be the one the Indian canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immaged Canoe Island so named Some low clifts of rocks below this chanel, a large Island close under the Stard. Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below, here we met 2 canoes from below, below those Islands a range of high hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the shore bold and rockey, covered with a groth of Pine, an extensive low Island, Seperated from the Lard. side by a narrow chanel, on this Island we Stoped to Dine I walked out, found it open & covered with grass interspersed with small ponds, in which was great numbrs of foul, the remains of an old village on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several deer, our hunters killed on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 grey brant & 2 Ducks